GALWAY

Rough weather again so the Aran Islands are still on hold. We decided to take in Galway instead. On our drive out to Galway, Jackie noted, “Ireland is even beautiful in the rain.” It certainly is-as long as you view it from the shelter of the car.

First stop was St. Nicholas’ Collegiate Church. Built in 1320, the church is named after St. Nicholas because, during the middle ages, St. Nick was revered as the patron saint of sailors. According to the pamphlet, “Christopher Columbus almost certainly worshipped here in 1477.” I guess he must have left his autograph as evidence.

We grabbed some lunch and warm shelter from the steady rain in a pub called “The Front Door.” Lee went traditional with Shepherd’s pie—sure looks to beat our comfort foods. However, all traditional Irish food feels like comfort food. Last night’s dinner special felt like Thanksgiving dinner—turkey, ham, stuffing, mashed potatoes, carrots, boiled potato. And a few pints, naturally. I’m beginning to resemble a potato. Each meal is served with several forms and variations of spuds.

We wandered over to the shopping street and stumbled into the Thomas Dillon shop—THE only purveyors of the original and authentic Claddagh ring. Jackie and Caroline are sporting rings and Claire and Abby each got earrings. We stumbled around the town noting the flags of the 14 merchant families/tribes who controlled the city for 2 centuries and the Browne Doorway (a rescued façade from a 17^th century mansion that displays some kind of architectural significance and elegantly displayed on the sidewalk with a surround of plexiglass.) A few yards away, on the edge of Eyre Square, was Galway’s own occupy Wall Street movement, protesting some new housing tax.

We popped in the cars and headed to Salthill—a beachside promenade that is probably more fun to take in when it’s less windy and warmer that 40 degrees. The kids had a good time and, of course, that’s all that matters. We did, however, ignore their request to play at a playground and headed instead to Galway Cathedral—a beautiful cathedral built during Annie and Chris’ lifetimes but not Lee and Karen’s. It was constructed of local limestone and Connemara marble.

We worked our way back to Doolin via the scenic route. Yes, all routes in Ireland are scenic but this one was especially so. A gorgeous seaside drive with a stone wall was our only safety along the winding road edge and the sheep grazing the space between the road and the Atlantic. I don’t suppose the sheep have much of an appreciation for their prime real estate.

In search of a different and less touristy dinner venue, we popped over to nearby Lisdoonvarna only to discover that all the pubs were now closed for dinner, a stark difference to Doolin, which is hopping every night of the week. We ended up in the local Chinese restaurant (which is open until midnight). No potatoes tonight.

14 Tribes of Galway

Galway Cathedral

Look hard--the kids are part of the landscape.

BUNRATTY CASTLE - EASTER SUNDAY

We walked up to the church on the hill for 10am mass celebrated by a priest who raced through parts of mass but yet seemed to forget others. We made brunch and then headed off to Bunratty Castle and Folk park, forced to abandon our plans to peruse the Aran Islands due to the weather.

Bunratty Castle was constructed in the 16^th C. and served as home to the MacNamara’s and O’Brien’s. It was abandoned in the 19^th C. and then restored in the 1950s. The folk park has various village houses and environs that depict village life through the late 1800s—everything from one-room thatched roof homes to an estate house, chickens, pigs and Irish Wolfhounds. We wrapped up the day with a warm meal at Brogan’s in Ennis that was reminiscent of a Thanksgiving meal--so much food crammed on one plate! Awesome!

Irish Wolfhound

CLIFFS OF MOHER

The extreme physical exertion required of Croagh Patrick afforded us a late start today. Well, for most of us. Lee was missing when the rest of us woke up. Turns out he was gallivanting about Doolin on his own. Once the remaining 8 were finally up, we grabbed some lunch at Fitzpatrick’s then set off on a gentle drive to the Cliffs of Moher, spent a few hours in awe of nature, snapped some shots of a rainbow and baked the kids a gourmet dinner from a supermarket tray (pork loin, potatoes, carrots) while the parents enjoyed a night out at McGann’s.

GOOD FRIDAY - CROAGH PATRICK

Croagh Patrick

Today, we made our pilgrimage to the top of Croagh Patrick, The Holy Mountain.
http://www.croagh-patrick.com/visitorcentre/holy-mountain

We are still trying to decide if the way up or the way down was more frightening. It took us a little over 2 hours to reach the summit and I kept praying I’d see an apparition of the Virgin Mother when I got there. Instead, I was reminded not to whine every time the barefoot pilgrim passed me. The path is far from smooth—covered with rocks and debris the entire way. In some spots, the loose rocks created an avalanche, causing us to slip and slide up and down the outrageously steep incline. This is one of those experiences where, half way through you think, what on earth have I just gotten myself into? Three quarters of the way through, you want to turn back and go have a hamburger. Once you reach the summit and have a little snack you begin your descent only to realize the way down is even more treacherous than the way up. You finally reach the bottom only to be humiliated by the fact that all the kids reached the bottom 30-40 minutes ahead of us and were warming themselves in the café waiting for some cash for snacks.

Anyway, we arrived prepared for whatever the mountain could throw at us--we had rain gear, hiking pants, hiking boots, some fruit, walking sticks and cameras. The weather was misty, rainy and cold. We couldn't believe some of the people climbing this thing. There was a barefoot man in a short-sleeved shirt, big kids, small kids, folks in Keds, folks in running shoes, old people, a few dogs. There was a school group in matching shirts carrying a cross up the mountain. A few of the boys actually stopped and gently applauded the barefoot pilgrim, who continued silently, bleeding, down the mountain, rosary dangling from his hand. It was a painful, cold, inspirational, exhausting day and I'm so glad we did it together.

The man who started it all!

We made it!!!!!

Names spelled out with stones way, way down in a valley. 

This was an more "gentle" part of the path!

Caroline, CJ, Jackie--wiped out after their pilgrimage.

FAMILY FUN IN ENNISTIMON - More Photos

The kids hanging out with some local asses.